excellent info Johnny2Bad, thanks for sharing.
By the way, it seems that you have quite a god knowledge in audio electronics. Has this to do with your work or is it a hobby? Do you make amplifiers and radios?
At one time I owned a retail store selling audio equipment. That was quite some time ago ... I've been in my new career for 25 years, which is about as far away from retail and audio, or electronics in any form, as you can get.
We focused on three primary markets: the serious home audio enthusiast, the serious home recording studio enthusiast, and the Professional market with emphasis on clubs (they were called 'disco's" then), small to medium ( up to concert hall) live music sound reinforcement, FM radio stations, and professional recording studios. We had a service tech, obtained factory repair authorization from our suppliers, and handled warranty and other repairs in-house for gear we sold only (ie we were not a "walk-in" repair shop). I've worked with and peered into the guts of a lot of gear that many people know only by reputation; a lot of which is in the "collector status" today.
We also began work on advanced car audio systems, at first just for our own vehicles but later to retail. We imported Nakamichi 250 and 350 DC-powered decks from Nakamichi Japan, imported Jim Fosgate's amps at a time when he had less than 5 dealers worldwide and built them essentially in his garage, and used selected drivers sourced directly from the manufacturer. We used SON-Audax, Peerless, Philips and KEF drivers. I still miss the KEF T-27 tweeter ... an outstanding HF dome with excellent, lifelike HF response, but you could cross it over at 1500 Hz/24 dB per octave (although KEF never did in their manufactured speakers, similarly the famous BBC LS3/5a monitor crossed it over at 3 Khz).
An example of the Nak 250 can be found here:
http://www.nakamichi-schenk.nl/SpecialNaks_content/Nak250E.htmI came to this site via the excellent summary of the 555 timer found elsewhere.
My interest these days in electronics is purely personal and for my own use. My current project is a car system for my personal vehicle. It has two design goals ... to maintain the stock appearance and functionality of the vehicle and to obtain the highest sound quality. That combination results in a bit of a challenge, which i'm enjoying.
I'm not interested in SPL for it's own sake, or bass levels that belong in a movie theatre rather than a serious sound reproduction system. I have always installed some kind of audio system in all my vehicles.
I've done quite a bit more with this install than most. Briefly, the system consists of 6 channels of amplification for full range speakers and a true subwoofer. The main amplifier is a DIY project with 3x 2020 Tripath Class-D chips. I am going to try an OEM full-range Peerless driver in the dash tweeter location (200~22Khz 2"metal cone) that is commonly found in flat screen TVs. The balance will consist of Peerless drivers with the exception of a VIFA dome tweeter originally used in a ProAc speaker (ProAc Studio 110, 130, 140 and centre).
The OEM deck will be retained, with two channels of transformer-based impedance matching to convert the power-amp level signal to line level impedance (although it will be at a few volts level, so not truly "line level" of 0.775V) to a ECC82/12AU7 vacuum tube powered buffer stage, and then to the three Tripath chips. Another two channels are available from the deck (so the F-R fader control will work) and they will also be transformer coupled, to a dedicated LF amplifier. The buffer stage will not be in the LF path.
At the typical voltage levels of an automobile power supply and driver impedances I'm using, I expect 6 channels of clean, wideband power of about 13.5 W RMS per channel (eg all channels driven, 20~20,000 Hz at less than 0.1% THD, 4 ohm purely resistive load) for a total of about 80 watts RMS.
I KHz distortion, 1 channel driven at 13.5W 4 ohms, measured, varies from 0.031 to 0.036%, depending on which of the six channels you test.
By "car stereo" standard specification methods, most manufacturers would call this a 150 Watt amplifier (eg 25 Watts RMS, measured via one channel driven, 1KHz, 4 ohms, 10% THD and then the product multiplied by six).
I will need to build a 555-based timer circuit to manage the turn-on and turn-off delays of the buffer stage and the following amplifier stages, so that the system is well behaved. As I said earlier, this should be, to casual observation, an ordinary, unmodified, stock vehicle. This means the sound system will be turned off and on by the power/volume knob on the factory deck.
The final system will acommodate a different source, such as an iPod, along with the factory radio/disk player. Radios for this vehicle sell for about $150 used, and along with someone else's idea of a quality interface for about $60, certain models would swap in, retain the stock appearance, and allow this aux input. I'm going to save the $200+ and go with what is installed and my own mods, as there is no significant difference otherwise between the stock head units available for this vehicle.
I expect decent performance from the stock head unit. Many people are of a different opinion, but I've actually measured a lot of aftermarket and factory decks. The factory sound system is actually quite listenable at moderate power levels, suggesting decent overall performance and reasonable compromises for the 6 factory speaker locations. At moderate power levels the factory units are up to the job, so all we need to do is insure the amplifier operates below the onset of clipping in the factory head unit (the "knee" of the THD +N curve). The buffer stage has the ability for a gain of 27x, with sub- 0.1% THD at gains of 6x or less, so this will not be a problem.
I expect improvements in overall SPL, of course, but also in detail, soundstaging and depth. The Tripath chips have extremely low overall noise. Bass performance will be significantly enhanced, but I have not spent much time there yet aside from insuring it will have a line level output available from the deck ... it will be a "stage 2" project. Because the factory deck has 4 channels available I will be able to adjust LF balance via the F/R fader control. For the 6 channels of main amplification, each pair of channels will have a level control for system balance using a ladder type 23-position switch.
I have no intention of entering any sound competitions, but the rulebook of the IASCA is a fundamentally sound blueprint regarding safety and allowable installation procedures. Their requirements differ somewhat from my standard practice, but only in the details (eg the size of grommet required for a through-firewall power cable) so I've decided to follow their rules for the installation. I recommend it to anyone contemplating a car audio project, as they are all sensible and can be considered known good practice.
Interestingly because I'm not using off-the-shelf store-bought electronics, I'd be forced to compete in a "Pro" Class with IASCA. I'd probably come in last, as this will not be a system capable of SPLs above perhaps 105~110 dB.