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Homemade Soldering StationAuthor
Pantelis
April 20, 2012

PAGE 5 of 6 - finishing


now placing the stuff in the box

i forgot to say the thermocouple i bought was from here


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1M-K-Type-Thermocouple-K-thermometer-sensor-plastic-/320728928176?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aacef0fb0

but as it proved ,the cable was short it was 1 meter ,the best was 1.5 meter more



 




 



the transformer pack is remade


 



 



 



 



 



 



 



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  • At 14 August 2014, 14:21:38 user Rajeev wrote:   [reply @ Rajeev]
    • Can you please share the schematic and code for the station. After a lot of search I came here.

      Thanks & best regards

      Rajeev


  • At 7 August 2014, 8:22:12 user Karanbir wrote:   [reply @ Karanbir]
    • @ Pantelis,
      Can you share the schematic and code for the station. After a lot of search I came to this post.
      Regards
      Karanbir


  • At 20 July 2014, 18:50:14 user lucky sejaphala wrote:   [reply @ lucky sejaphala]
    • Please can i get schematic of diagram of soldering station


  • At 7 October 2012, 15:44:49 user Chris wrote:   [reply @ Chris]
    • @Pantelis
      Could you please email me the source code for that station, or at least tell me where to look for it?
      Thanks in adveance,
      Chris


  • At 31 July 2012, 13:02:05 user Teo wrote:   [reply @ Teo]
    • @Pantelis
      what is the recovery time of the temperature of your iron 15watt?
      what's an iron suitable for this project? 15, 25 or 40 watts?
      Thanks a lot :D


  • At 30 July 2012, 19:17:27 user Pantelis wrote:   [reply @ Pantelis]
    • yes its less, but there is no problem, the only thing that you may face up is that if you place the protective of the cable too close to the soldering iron it may melt, there is no other problem, it work perfect


  • At 18 July 2012, 8:40:37 user Teo wrote:   [reply @ Teo]
    • http://www.ebay.com/itm/1M-K-Type-Thermocouple-K-thermometer-sensor-plastic-/320728928176?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aacef0fb0


      Sorry but 400°C max operating temperature, and 200°C max temperature for isolation of thermocouple K cable, they are less for this solder station that reach 500°C?
      Thanks


  • At 20 May 2012, 12:44:53 user herctrap wrote:   [reply @ herctrap]
    • the same with an AVR

      http://www.pcbheaven.com/userpages/Homemade_Soldering_Station_2_AVR/



      and with a PIC

      www.pcbheaven.com/projectpages/Homemade_Soldering_Station


  • At 17 May 2012, 5:01:11 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote:   [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]
    • @Kostas you are in that link already. click the next page


  • At 16 May 2012, 22:33:01 user Kostas wrote:   [reply @ Kostas]
    • could you provide the initial link of the project??or the code and shematics?!very interesting project!!WEll DONE!!


  • At 11 May 2012, 4:44:55 user herctrap wrote:   [reply @ herctrap]
    • try to reverse P and I factor


  • At 8 May 2012, 20:38:56 user Pantelis wrote:   [reply @ Pantelis]
    • increasing the i factor,at the selected p, the osculation is very big

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKESUKziq9A&feature=youtu.be


  • At 8 May 2012, 16:41:52 user herctrap wrote:   [reply @ herctrap]
    • Increace the Ki factor


  • At 27 April 2012, 19:37:51 user Pantelis wrote:   [reply @ Pantelis]
    • its working much better now
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BE-JKx3HGJU&feature=player_embedded

      but i can not keep the temperature stable, look at here ,its /- 8 degrees,is it normal?Shouldn't be stable .

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZ2bdRXvpeI&feature=youtu.be


      From this point start the problem, because if i set it to 250 C for example ,it is mouving around 245-255.

      I have to say something that maybe is wrong. From the pcb until the 3.5 mm famale jack (its about 10cm) , i am using a normal cable and not thermocouple cable, because thermocouple is not long enough. As George said at his tutorial ,i think it is wrong, isn't it?


  • At 25 April 2012, 14:16:41 user herctrap wrote:   [reply @ herctrap]
    • How its working now?

      Have you used pin headers for 220??????


  • At 25 April 2012, 12:24:16 user Pantelis wrote:   [reply @ Pantelis]
    • my wrong was that when i set fuse and i push ok ,but i should push write at ponyprog , now its working at 8Mhz.
      tnx herctrap


  • At 24 April 2012, 22:15:20 user herctrap wrote:   [reply @ herctrap]
    • Any Update??


  • At 23 April 2012, 20:58:06 user herctrap wrote:   [reply @ herctrap]
    • yes i know the values

      there are on my post under the hex files

      also i have posted here in my older posts

      -------------------

      i dont use ponyprog

      search on youtube how to set the fuses

      -------------------

      its in normay speed


  • At 23 April 2012, 18:09:12 user pantelis wrote:   [reply @ pantelis]
    • sorry, your video is in normal play?? i thought it was in forward mode!!!!!

      so, i adjust the fuses like that

      http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/4056/31551783.jpg

      the only value i change was

      internal rc osc 8 Mhz ... 64 ms, the fuses goes to Low: E4 high: D9
      and i place the configuration bits as i saw these at the photo, but i couldn't change the SPIEN ,it was grey and i couldn't tick or untick this
      What is wrong?


  • At 23 April 2012, 17:03:25 user herctrap wrote:   [reply @ herctrap]
    • No the fuses are still wrong

      check my video

      see how fast the "by herctrap" is

      and see for how many sec the PID factors are apear

      and how faster is the responce on the bargraph

      -----------------------------

      an thes pernas kai apo to egalaio na to doume


  • At 23 April 2012, 13:51:22 user Pantelis wrote:   [reply @ Pantelis]
    • i did all my best!

      i already place the fuses

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbkzQm8SJOo&feature=youtu.be

      is there anything wrong here?

      http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/481/img0750zp.jpg


  • At 23 April 2012, 9:34:37 user herctrap wrote:   [reply @ herctrap]
    • this command is for avrdude

      http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/avrdude.html

      i am not sure if it is working on the ponyprog


  • At 23 April 2012, 7:48:55 user pantelis wrote:   [reply @ pantelis]
    • tnx

      yes it real ,i don't have touch fuses,i search and i found this
      http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc
      Here i change only <<AVR part name>>: atmega8 and at <<current settings>> i change E1 to E4 and now i have this
      -U lfuse:w:0xe4:m -U hfuse:w:0xd9:m
      Now i have to place this string at conmmand line to the ponyprog, but i can't find command line there.


  • At 23 April 2012, 6:23:08 user herctrap wrote:   [reply @ herctrap]
    • you have to fix the fuses for the avr also to:

      Lfuse = E4h
      Hfuse = D9h

      you are running 8 times slower
      so you are not updating output fast enough


  • At 23 April 2012, 5:38:14 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote:   [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]
    • @Pantelis This is typical overshot from bad PID values. Use smaller P and larger I, and no D at all. The, start playing with the I time. This will reduce the reaction and probably the overshot.


  • At 23 April 2012, 0:10:13 user Pantelis wrote:   [reply @ Pantelis]
    • tnx

      So, i am trying all day to achieve the set temperature but i canot achieve to make it work like yours hercules. I have a variation about /- 10 degrees.i am trying to achieve a set temperature at 100 degrees and it goes about from 93 to 110. i have outcome to the conclusion that my soldering iron is 60 watts and when i am trying to reach the set temperature it rise about 10-15 degrees in every 8 seconds whereas yours because its only 15watts, it rises just only 2-4 degrees every 8 seconds.
      I am saying that because i try it with a lamp 40W and it works perfect just only /- 3 degrees variation , afterwards i try it with a lamp 60 W and i saw it was even harder to stabilize at the set temperature, i had a variation about /- 3-6 degrees .The best values that work for me was p=50 i=2 d=1.
      That's my conclusion ,maybe its wrong ,if you have to say something to try, i will do.


  • At 22 April 2012, 21:23:34 user Hercules Trapierakis wrote:   [reply @ Hercules Trapierakis]
    • ijust saw your video

      i think that you dont have set the fuses

      ------------------

      Lfuse = E4h
      Hfuse = D9h

      -----------------

      it seems that is running on 1Mhz and not on 8Mhz


  • At 22 April 2012, 20:51:02 user herctrap wrote:   [reply @ herctrap]
    • Nice

      try these values

      P = 50
      I = 2
      D = 1

      i will test them again


  • At 22 April 2012, 19:39:29 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote:   [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]
    • @Pantelis to set the pid you will need to see how the temperature behaves and then play with them. it is not that hard, but you will need first to gain some experience


  • At 22 April 2012, 8:41:21 user Pantelis wrote:   [reply @ Pantelis]
    • yes its log,but i think its doesn't need a very specific set of temperature but if i found a linear i 'll place it. I have to read about pid again

      the 4 corners are aluminum, the 4 profiles are wood ,these was from a ground stand about 1 meter, i found it from a shop that were hanged up some bones ,its very nice and easy to work with it. I don't know if these are sold somewhere.
      So, my problem is the adjustment of the pid values ?


  • At 22 April 2012, 8:10:08 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote:   [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]
    • hmmmm, i think that the potentiometer you use is logarithmic. A linear potentiometer would be better. The PID values have nothing to do with the temperature set-up. The PID values affect the output only. Check this out:
      http://www.pcbheaven.com/wikipages/PID_Theory

      This will be a good start for learning PID.
      Some photos from the complete project????? Can you upload for us to see? And where did you find these plastic (or aluminum) profiles that you use in the 4 corners of your box? I like them, i think i can use them as well...





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