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16 October 2010
Author: Giorgos Lazaridis
Acrylic Glass Folding Heater




Worklog - Making the base (November 29 2010)

Due to technicalities, i had to delay the project. So, here i am finishing it:


Here are all the woods that i will need Using my favorite and powerful glue, i began by gluing the back side of the base Then i made the new support for the lamp the reflector and the aluminum tubes And then i screwed the reflector on the new lamp base



I made a pocket for the screw that powers the lamp, and i screwed the clamps for the cable I will use the same heat-insulating material to secure the wire, only that now it is shorter This is how the wire is attached to the lamp's lead, and how it is secured by the clamp When the support was ready, i glued it on the base


Behind the support, there is a cover than needs to be removable:


First i had to make an open for the ceramic connector Which i did with the jig saw This is the back cover so far
I cut two small pieces of wood. These will hold the cover in position I glued them on the base right behind the cover, so it will not fall (but can be removed) One on the left side and one on the right, and the cover is almost fixed there.




Some air circulation

Because the support is closed now, i need a means of ventilation to remove the hot air beneath the lamp. A small 50mm PC fan underpowered (to reduce the noise) will be perfect:


This is the 50mm fan that i will use I opened the proper window for the fan to fit With the dremel i made a canal for the wires to go through That's it. The aluminum profiles will push the cover down in position and it will not move.


Speaking of "pushing the cover down", this is how the aluminum tubes are fixed on the support:


I use 2 U profiled aluminum pieces with a hole in the middle I made a hole on each side of the support, right in the middle I screwed the aluminum pieces in these holes Then i put the aluminum tubes between the pieces and the support


When the screws are fixed, the aluminum tubes are also fixed in position. Moreover, the back cover is also fixed because it stands under one of the aluminum tubes. Note also that in this version of my folding heater, the inlets and outlets for the water are on the down side. This is how it looks so far (as always, click on an image to enlarge it):







One more piece...

The tank will be placed horizontally on the back side of the base. So i need a piece to separate the tank form the rest. This piece will be high enough to act also as a third support along with the 2 aluminum tubes, for better stability of the pieces that will be heated.


This is how this piece will be placed to separate the tank It is also high enough to act as a 3rd support I opened a 80mm hole right in the middle
And i finished this hole with the jig-saw to perform a U Then i glued it in position The hole is exactly behind the fan, so the fan is used also to (somehow) cool the tank as well.


So far so good. Tomorrow i will finish the construction completely, by placing the tank and finishing the electric part.

















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  • At 6 May 2014, 2:38:40 user buce wrote:   [reply @ buce]
      • good afternoon

      Kamenos .... I was introduced Buce %u200B%u200Bof Borneo Indonesia I was very pleased with the files and acrylic glass folding heater at the circuit there is a pic 12F615 microcontroller IC. if I can get the list of programmers, software and downloadernya so I can try if the device can operate ... if Kamenos pleased I could be sent to a file that has been filled in the chip and at what price.

      thank you

  • At 20 March 2012, 7:16:45 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote:   [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]
      • @Charlie i used to use a hot-air gun for bending but believe me, there is no comparison. Unless you make a base which blows equally hot air in a small region.

  • At 19 March 2012, 13:25:25 user Charlie wrote:   [reply @ Charlie]
      • if i remember correctly, genuine folders use a slow flow of hot air, which may work better than light. so perhaps a hot air gun will work great!

  • At 23 November 2011, 15:42:04 user Kammenos wrote:   [reply @ Kammenos]
      • @Emmanuel the schematic is similar to the circuit that i link to. Very small changes (such as some zerner diodes and staff) are all marked on the new schematic. The parts are labeled on the schematic. Which of the parts are you having problem to clarify?

  • At 23 November 2011, 5:12:18 user Emmanuel wrote:   [reply @ Emmanuel]
      • hallo again sir, i'd like to clarify the bills of requirement. im having troubles about it since you've change the circuitry of the PCB. i was wondering if you could post it as well so i can figure out where and what requirements to use.. im abit confuse on that part... TIA..

  • At 12 November 2011, 0:13:03 user Emmanuel wrote:   [reply @ Emmanuel]
      • wow! thank you very much sir.. this will help me on my bender problems... i'll let you know if it does or does not work.. again thanks.. i'm off shopping for the parts in need.. hehehe!!

  • At 3 November 2011, 13:26:25 user Kammenos wrote:   [reply @ Kammenos]
      • @Emmanuel Ah i see what you mean, you want the PCB and the parts layout. Ok, i uploaded them in the 3rd page (http://pcbheaven.com/projectpages/Acrylic_Glass_Folding_Heater/?p=2&topic=worklog)

      Keep in mind that:
      1. You need to CONFIRM twice that the TRIAC is correctly connected. Check the datasheet of the triac. If it is not correctly placed, then the optocoupler may be damaged.
      2. There is LIVE HIGH VOLTAGE on the board. Take super extra precautions, and make sure you've read and understand this first:
      http://www.pcbheaven.com/m_pages/el_shock_prec.php

  • At 2 November 2011, 8:12:50 user Emmanuel wrote:   [reply @ Emmanuel]
      • @kammenos Bro im abit confuse on how to translate the diagram, i don't know much about electrical diagrams or how translate it, i just wanted to see/ask the full drawing which i can read, like where these 1 ohm resistor goes to etc. basically a drawing type with labels on it so i can understand which and where to put those capacitors, resistors, diodes etc on full PCB look. like on your worklog page 3 on "electronic staff" you labeled a pic there named "the artwork" for your final PCB design. if i could just have that drawing with labels on it so it would be easy for me to follow through..

      thanks in advance..

  • At 30 October 2011, 6:14:17 user Kammenos wrote:   [reply @ Kammenos]
      • @Emmanuel the original circuit is here:http://pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/PIC_DCV_Controlled_AC_Dimmer/
      with all the details needed.

  • At 28 October 2011, 8:20:11 user Emmanuel wrote:   [reply @ Emmanuel]
      • @kammenos yeah sure im trying to find out where are the details and the design of your circuit board so that i can create it. i really do need some helping doing this project of mine. so i can use it for my other project.. please do reply.

      thanks

  • At 28 October 2011, 4:56:49 user Kammenos wrote:   [reply @ Kammenos]
      • @Emmanuel i suppose the heater you use is a resistive wire, you can use a simple dimmer like i did.

  • At 28 October 2011, 4:41:14 user Emmanuel wrote:   [reply @ Emmanuel]
      • hi there Giorgos

      i've been searching for this kind of bending Machine, and i found it.. i build the same thingy but mine has no cooling type and i can control the heat it produces. i tried looking something to control the amount it gave out, i use a wire from a microwave oven "microme wire" (thats what it is called here in my place). it gives out up to 1500 degrees of heat. i don't know much about circuitry. can you dimmer which can control the amount of heat of the rod will do the same for my "microme wire"? thanks and im looking forward for your reply.

  • At 2 June 2011, 12:07:31 user Kammenos wrote:   [reply @ Kammenos]
      • @michelle everything is detailed documented in the worklog. Read the worklog pages and you will find that there is a pump.

  • At 2 June 2011, 8:59:19 user michelle wrote:   [reply @ michelle]
      • hi there
      love your machine but could u explain, how you make the water circulate/
      what must i use and where is it placed??

      thanks alot

      michelle
      israel

  • At 14 April 2011, 21:18:37 user Kammenos wrote:   [reply @ Kammenos]
      • @Miodrag the special glue is a kind of glue that is completely transparent and looks very much alike water. When the glue is poured onto plexiglass, the plastic melts temporary. So, when two plastics are put together under pressure and there is this glue between them, they melt and they join together. When the glue evaporates, they become solids again. The bond is very strong. I do not have the glue bottle, as i was given a small quantity into a glass bottle. But if i find more info i will post it.

  • At 13 April 2011, 22:15:57 user Miodrag wrote:   [reply @ Miodrag]
      • Well, impressive explanation !

      But, can You be a little bit specific on what kind of 'special glue' You used and what was the exact procedure for joining those two plexi parts at the end !

      Maybe that can be a separate explanation project ? :-)

      Regards,
      Miodrag

  • At 14 January 2011, 6:02:43 user Kammenos wrote:   [reply @ Kammenos]
      • Hi SoftEe. All materials are listed within the worklog pages. i am not sure about the type of the lamp. actually , it is not lamp, i think it is something like this:
      http://www.bltdirect.com/product.php?pid=11052&cat=1913&nm=Infrared+500w+240v+Ceramic+Lamp

      The one i have i measured it at 800 Watts, which is super high. If you get yours, get at least half smaller. The dimmer materials are listed on the schematic (click to enlarge). When you finish it, send me images of your design and i will post it in my blog.

  • At 13 January 2011, 22:20:50 user SoftEe wrote:   [reply @ SoftEe]
      • Impressive! This reminds me when I was in junior high. Pretty much everything electrical I owned I took apart to see if I could improve it or make something different. Do you have a full materials list available? I would love to build one of these for projects around my house. One main project to hide electrical components behind my flat screen TV like this company without having to pay their outrageous prices. HIDEitmounts.com. Following my completion I will post a picture if that's ok. I live a block from a Radio Shack and 1/8 of a mile from a hardware store. I'm thinking this should be pretty straight forward. I'm excited to try it!

  • At 5 December 2010, 21:04:05 user Rob in Belfast wrote:   [reply @ Rob in Belfast]
      • Superb!

      This is exactly what I am looking for. I have some work to do at home and I need an acrylic strip heater - I no longer have access at work.

  • At 3 December 2010, 22:56:18 user Mario wrote:   [reply @ Mario]
      • Sorry, I haven't seen the "worklog" page tab...

  • At 3 December 2010, 4:02:01 user Arutan wrote:   [reply @ Arutan]
      • Very instructive !
      Thanks and all the best !

  • At 2 December 2010, 18:03:57 user FlashGordon wrote:   [reply @ FlashGordon]
      • Nice thinking.
      My grandfather had already made something similar (but simpler) in the 50-s/60-s when plexiglass was still pioneer stuff. Instead of aluminium/water, he used two sheets of asbestos. Instead of a lamp he used 4 resistor wires (3 on bottom, 1 on top) in between the asbestos sheets, where he put the plexi. Operated on 50 volts.

  • At 2 December 2010, 5:58:33 user Kammenos wrote:   [reply @ Kammenos]
      • There are many materials to be used instead of aluminum indeed. but they come bit expensive.

  • At 2 December 2010, 4:50:10 user Labib Baroudi wrote:   [reply @ Labib Baroudi]
      • Hi there Giorgos

      I like your work and way of thinking I though you might have used marble insted of aluminume I think I saw someone do that using thick marble I have no idea what type is that marble but it was thick one anyway keep the good work you did realy great job, I just love it and your site is full of matirials I would come back and sure got it in my feeder.

      Labib
      From Lebanon country

  • At 20 November 2010, 8:26:59 user Gangat <Mohsin wrote:   [reply @ Gangat <Mohsin]
      • Please mail me such pojects
      that was fantastic



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