yes its less, but there is no problem, the only thing that you may face up is that if you place the protective of the cable too close to the soldering iron it may melt, there is no other problem, it work perfect
From this point start the problem, because if i set it to 250 C for example ,it is mouving around 245-255.
I have to say something that maybe is wrong. From the pcb until the 3.5 mm famale jack (its about 10cm) , i am using a normal cable and not thermocouple cable, because thermocouple is not long enough. As George said at his tutorial ,i think it is wrong, isn't it?
internal rc osc 8 Mhz ... 64 ms, the fuses goes to Low: E4 high: D9
and i place the configuration bits as i saw these at the photo, but i couldn't change the SPIEN ,it was grey and i couldn't tick or untick this
What is wrong?
yes it real ,i don't have touch fuses,i search and i found this
Here i change only <<AVR part name>>: atmega8 and at <<current settings>> i change E1 to E4 and now i have this
-U lfuse:w:0xe4:m -U hfuse:w:0xd9:m
Now i have to place this string at conmmand line to the ponyprog, but i can't find command line there.
So, i am trying all day to achieve the set temperature but i canot achieve to make it work like yours hercules. I have a variation about /- 10 degrees.i am trying to achieve a set temperature at 100 degrees and it goes about from 93 to 110. i have outcome to the conclusion that my soldering iron is 60 watts and when i am trying to reach the set temperature it rise about 10-15 degrees in every 8 seconds whereas yours because its only 15watts, it rises just only 2-4 degrees every 8 seconds.
I am saying that because i try it with a lamp 40W and it works perfect just only /- 3 degrees variation , afterwards i try it with a lamp 60 W and i saw it was even harder to stabilize at the set temperature, i had a variation about /- 3-6 degrees .The best values that work for me was p=50 i=2 d=1.
That's my conclusion ,maybe its wrong ,if you have to say something to try, i will do.
yes its log,but i think its doesn't need a very specific set of temperature but if i found a linear i 'll place it. I have to read about pid again
the 4 corners are aluminum, the 4 profiles are wood ,these was from a ground stand about 1 meter, i found it from a shop that were hanged up some bones ,its very nice and easy to work with it. I don't know if these are sold somewhere.
So, my problem is the adjustment of the pid values ?
hmmmm, i think that the potentiometer you use is logarithmic. A linear potentiometer would be better. The PID values have nothing to do with the temperature set-up. The PID values affect the output only. Check this out:
This will be a good start for learning PID.
Some photos from the complete project????? Can you upload for us to see? And where did you find these plastic (or aluminum) profiles that you use in the 4 corners of your box? I like them, i think i can use them as well...