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This project is not completed yet - Last update: January 27, 2013
Modding Yamaha CryptonR - "The Crypton Project"Author
Panagiotis Kalogeris
September 5, 2012

PAGE 1 of 8 - Front Light

[ Front Light ]

OK... and now that "LEDs Option" is selected what's next?

A VERY MAJOR problem that i faced, was the way of how i should make the leds fitted on everywhere especially the front light....
The specificity that the front light had was that i should placed it in a way that i shouldn't blind the other drivers coming accross me...
As you may know Leds have a viewing angle ,so i had to put it in a angle that i would have enough light to light the road and simultaneously not blinding the other drivers.But that's not the only problems i faced with the front light.....
"HEAT" was my next one!!!!!

I used a 10w led and on 800-900ma produces large amount of heat so i should consideer also the heatsink
of the led.... :-(

BUT!!! an idea came on my head and i must admit that amazed me because i didn't belive that i could thought it on my own....ALUMINIUM ROD was the answer to my such complicated problem.....
With the aluminium rod i accomplished two things...
First of all i did the angle for not blinding the other drivers and secontly i managed to tranfer the leds heat to the heatsink which was placed ,behind the mask....(See the pictures below to understand the housing of the led with the rod and the heatsink.)

I took the aluminium rod and cutted on an angle not to blind the other drivers I rasped the rod for better contactivity between the led and the thermal paste.

I bought a thread tool and made thread to merge the rod with the heatsing I merged the rod with the heatsink.

A closer look from behind of how the rod was merged with the heatsink. The Led assembled on the rod.

Ok so far....But how this could be fitted on the headlight????

I must say that i was a little bit lucky because the old housing of the bulb had a hole that suits exactly to the rod i used.
(If i remember correct was 22mm) I removed the contacts of the old bulb housing and it was left only the hole.
The result can be seen below....

See how i managed to pass through the wires behind...Also how i stabilized the rod to the bulb housing. Another photo from the frond...

Behind the mask with the protective plastic and the wires ready to be connected. Here's how i mount the flashing led to the front light...Observe how i cutted the led to fit on

The position lights.I soldered the led on the old bulb housing. The led at night. (Image injustice the result)

The led at night. (Different view angle) The led at night. (Different view angle)

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  • At 5 March 2015, 23:49:39 user Stentor wrote:   [reply @ Stentor]
    • I still don't get it, as my bike has 4 oem cables: gnd(black) green and 2yellow ones. I made the led "bulb" according to your idea (thans again) but driven it with a 10w led driver and not your driver, but this way i only have 1 beam, cause could not figure out how connect 4 cables to 5 jumpers (ok the two are the led out) lol.
      Thanks anyway. You are very helpful.

  • At 19 February 2015, 11:22:31 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
    • If you open the schematic and the board files which are listed below it will be more clear to you.
      There are 7 pins
      2 for the input 12-14,5v (Bebause of the alternator)
      2 for the led and
      3 for the selection of the beam (High,Low Half pin is the common).

      Regards Panagiotis

  • At 16 February 2015, 16:54:48 user Stentor wrote:   [reply @ Stentor]
    • No that idea was also great.
      My question was on the connections from the 3 oem cables (earth,high,low beam) to the pcb pins, as far as i can see, there is an extra input on the board, have you driven a new 12v cable or have i understood wrong?
      Thanks in advance and for the quick reply.
      Dimitris Stentor

  • At 12 February 2015, 18:17:08 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
    • Hello Stendor and thank you for your good words....
      If i have undrestand you correctly, you mean that... "why not to place the led on the yamaha's bulb socket? " If is that so, then i will answer you that you will face a ploblem which is blinding other drivers.
      With the aluminium rod i used i have made a 45 degrees corner approximately and you avoid blinding other drives....Please if you meant something else post again.

      Regards Panagiotis

  • At 11 February 2015, 19:59:19 user Stentor wrote:   [reply @ Stentor]
    • Amazing work. I have the exact same model, but i have a silly question
      Since at the oem bulb socket, are 3connections (low,high,earth), have you driven a different,new one for the Vin? Would'n be a way to use only the oem connections?
      Thank you

  • At 10 December 2013, 0:30:25 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
    • Nevermind..... Glad to learn something that i didn't know!
      So.... the more the better!!! :-)

  • At 1 December 2013, 6:37:44 user astral_mage wrote:   [reply @ astral_mage]
    • i hate to correct u there but leds now have an average lifespan of 200,000 - 300,000 hour lifespan

  • At 19 November 2013, 23:09:21 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
    • Hello John sorry for the late reply well try to find transistors with the same characteristics....Its not critical the type of the particular transistor.The driver transistor is the transistor that you must select carefully...I'am here to help you as much as i can.


  • At 10 November 2013, 23:25:10 user John wrote:   [reply @ John]
    • Great I couldn't understand the jp thank you!!!

      Another question about the transistor , I saw you used two types one with plastic cover (TO92) and one with metal (TO18). Were they 2N2222 and BC107 or something else (I do not know if there is a difference)?
      I took the advice of Kam and yours and I will use buck convectors, so I believe the dissipation will be less so I think the TO92 will be nice.
      The resistances you choose are rated 1/2 watt?

      P.S. I will have more question later!!!

  • At 9 November 2013, 9:23:45 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
    • Hello John!
      Well Jp1 is the input of the circuit.Is where you connect the power from your battery (Jp1 pin1 pin2-).
      Jp2 is the output where you connect the led (Jp2 pin1 pin2-).
      And finnaly Jp3 is the selection switch for the 2 scales of the led brightness.
      So there you will have to connect the switch on your left hand where you can select the 2 scales.If you wire the middle one with one of the two resistors you will notice the brightness changes according the value of the selected resistor.

      Yes for the rear led i used 3w where i have it working on half when i do not press break....

      I have also noticed your observation for the front led. I was thinking of placing a small fan for cooling it down.But after few experiments i ended that it gets very hot on the big scale where is not always "on".My considarations wasn't for the plastics but for the led itself (Reducing his life dramatically)the incadescent lamp was getting much hotter that the led's heatsink.Also remember that if you place a fan you can increase the wattage of the led.Also if you are planning to add a fan don't forget to make some big holes to the surrounding plastic.
      "Look to the picture with the comment " The heatsinks i used taken from a broken tv. (Notice the one mosfet with the 7806.)""on led driver page.

  • At 25 October 2013, 11:14:26 user John wrote:   [reply @ John]
    • Really nice!!!
      I am trying to do something like yours to test it but at your Led Driver Pcb I cannot understand where to connect jp1,2,3.
      I can understand that this pcb with the 3.3 and 1.2 ohm resistors are for the front light of 10w.
      For the red rear light did you use 3watt led?

      The front led heatsink is it getting very hot, I am wondering about the plastics around the light.

      Thank you
      P.S. I m waiting the rest of the worklog!!!

  • At 4 March 2013, 8:07:57 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
    • Hosea i am currently working on it i will post it when it will be finished and of course tested.
      Its in a "beta mode" right now... :-)

  • At 4 March 2013, 8:01:27 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
    • I will post the circuit diagram as soon as possible...( i must draw it first :-) ) As for the high and the low beam here's what i did....For the low beam, i drive the led with current consumption around 300ma and for the high beam i drive the led with current consumption around 900ma.Believe me it acts like a high beam because of the lumens that produces and of course without blinding other drivers......

  • At 28 February 2013, 18:23:12 user Matheus Lopes wrote:   [reply @ Matheus Lopes]
    • That rod idea is genial. But how would you use the high and low beam?

  • At 28 February 2013, 13:44:21 user Hosea wrote:   [reply @ Hosea]
    • the modifications are very impressive but looking forward to see the circuit diagram of the alarm

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