If you have read the experiments that i ran a couple of days ago, you would have seen that with this design, only e few watts of power needs to be dissipated from the water to keep it cold. After my research i found out that a single 1 lt metallic tank is enough for this power. So, i decided to use a metallic can that i had from some... chocolate sticks. The pump that i will use is a 220 submersible pump. Check out this page to see how i made the tank. And now i had to mount it on the base:
First, to make it completely water proof, added silicon compound around the edge of the can
Placed the cover above the silicon
And put some more silicon around the cover
And of course some more around the hoses and the wire.
The silicon cures sloooooooooow, so i had to wait a couple of days... Then i had to find a way to fix firmly the tank on the base, but it should also be able to be removed.
I got this 12mm piece of wood and marked the bottom edges of the can
This is (somehow) the arc that the bottom of the can runs
With the dremel i made a groove for the lips to fit in
Notice that the lips of the can goes inside the groove on the wood
I made a hole on the piece
I pushed the can against the glued piece on the right and screwed the grooved piece behind
The tank is now fixed firmly, yet can be easily removed if i unscrew the screw.
Time to finish the plumping
I got a more flexible 8mm hose
Connected one side of the aluminum tubes to the first tank hose
And the other side to the other tank hose
The water circulation is ready. I only need to add water.
I drilled a hole on the cover of a water bottle and put the 8mm hose through
I filled the bottle with 1.1lt of water
A small pot will avoid the mess in case of overfilling
And so i filled the circuit with water... Easy.
Securing the electric and electronic components on the base
Now i need to find a place for all the electric and electronic staff, and secure them in position. T chose the left side of the tank to be the control panel. So i began:
First the power supply socket. I cut the back wood for the socket to fit, and screwed it in position.
With an aluminum bar, i secured the transformer in position. I also added double sided duct tape, just to be sure
I put 2 non-conductive soft self-sticking pieces under the PCB, and i screwed it above.
That is how the "control cabinet" looks
And then, i had to find a way to cover all these things. I decided to use white acrylic glass for cover. But i had to bend it somehow. IT WAS TIME FOR A REAL-LIFE TEST OF THE MACHINE!!!
This is the 6mm acrylic glass that i will use
The folder works SWEET!
Within 3 minutes, the first bend was done
Another 3 minutes and the cover is ready!
Perfect bend...
...isn't it?
Now, to cover the left side and to fix it on the base:
I got another 6mm plexi-glass
With the dremel i rounded the 2 corners and made a slot for the wood
One hole for the switch and one for the fuse
With the special glue, i glued this piece on the cover.
Finally!
So, here we are, the acrylic folding heater project is finished! Here are some photos (as always, click on an image to enlarge it):
Kamenos .... I was introduced Buce %u200B%u200Bof Borneo Indonesia I was very pleased with the files and acrylic glass folding heater at the circuit there is a pic 12F615 microcontroller IC. if I can get the list of programmers, software and downloadernya so I can try if the device can operate ... if Kamenos pleased I could be sent to a file that has been filled in the chip and at what price.
@Charlie i used to use a hot-air gun for bending but believe me, there is no comparison. Unless you make a base which blows equally hot air in a small region.
@Emmanuel the schematic is similar to the circuit that i link to. Very small changes (such as some zerner diodes and staff) are all marked on the new schematic. The parts are labeled on the schematic. Which of the parts are you having problem to clarify?
hallo again sir, i'd like to clarify the bills of requirement. im having troubles about it since you've change the circuitry of the PCB. i was wondering if you could post it as well so i can figure out where and what requirements to use.. im abit confuse on that part... TIA..
wow! thank you very much sir.. this will help me on my bender problems... i'll let you know if it does or does not work.. again thanks.. i'm off shopping for the parts in need.. hehehe!!
@Emmanuel Ah i see what you mean, you want the PCB and the parts layout. Ok, i uploaded them in the 3rd page (http://pcbheaven.com/projectpages/Acrylic_Glass_Folding_Heater/?p=2&topic=worklog)
Keep in mind that:
1. You need to CONFIRM twice that the TRIAC is correctly connected. Check the datasheet of the triac. If it is not correctly placed, then the optocoupler may be damaged.
2. There is LIVE HIGH VOLTAGE on the board. Take super extra precautions, and make sure you've read and understand this first:
http://www.pcbheaven.com/m_pages/el_shock_prec.php
@kammenos Bro im abit confuse on how to translate the diagram, i don't know much about electrical diagrams or how translate it, i just wanted to see/ask the full drawing which i can read, like where these 1 ohm resistor goes to etc. basically a drawing type with labels on it so i can understand which and where to put those capacitors, resistors, diodes etc on full PCB look. like on your worklog page 3 on "electronic staff" you labeled a pic there named "the artwork" for your final PCB design. if i could just have that drawing with labels on it so it would be easy for me to follow through..
@kammenos yeah sure im trying to find out where are the details and the design of your circuit board so that i can create it. i really do need some helping doing this project of mine. so i can use it for my other project.. please do reply.
i've been searching for this kind of bending Machine, and i found it.. i build the same thingy but mine has no cooling type and i can control the heat it produces. i tried looking something to control the amount it gave out, i use a wire from a microwave oven "microme wire" (thats what it is called here in my place). it gives out up to 1500 degrees of heat. i don't know much about circuitry. can you dimmer which can control the amount of heat of the rod will do the same for my "microme wire"? thanks and im looking forward for your reply.
@Miodrag the special glue is a kind of glue that is completely transparent and looks very much alike water. When the glue is poured onto plexiglass, the plastic melts temporary. So, when two plastics are put together under pressure and there is this glue between them, they melt and they join together. When the glue evaporates, they become solids again. The bond is very strong. I do not have the glue bottle, as i was given a small quantity into a glass bottle. But if i find more info i will post it.
But, can You be a little bit specific on what kind of 'special glue' You used and what was the exact procedure for joining those two plexi parts at the end !
Maybe that can be a separate explanation project ? :-)
Hi SoftEe. All materials are listed within the worklog pages. i am not sure about the type of the lamp. actually , it is not lamp, i think it is something like this:
http://www.bltdirect.com/product.php?pid=11052&cat=1913&nm=Infrared+500w+240v+Ceramic+Lamp
The one i have i measured it at 800 Watts, which is super high. If you get yours, get at least half smaller. The dimmer materials are listed on the schematic (click to enlarge). When you finish it, send me images of your design and i will post it in my blog.
At 13 January 2011, 22:20:50 user SoftEe wrote: [reply @ SoftEe]
Impressive! This reminds me when I was in junior high. Pretty much everything electrical I owned I took apart to see if I could improve it or make something different. Do you have a full materials list available? I would love to build one of these for projects around my house. One main project to hide electrical components behind my flat screen TV like this company without having to pay their outrageous prices. HIDEitmounts.com. Following my completion I will post a picture if that's ok. I live a block from a Radio Shack and 1/8 of a mile from a hardware store. I'm thinking this should be pretty straight forward. I'm excited to try it!
Nice thinking.
My grandfather had already made something similar (but simpler) in the 50-s/60-s when plexiglass was still pioneer stuff. Instead of aluminium/water, he used two sheets of asbestos. Instead of a lamp he used 4 resistor wires (3 on bottom, 1 on top) in between the asbestos sheets, where he put the plexi. Operated on 50 volts.
I like your work and way of thinking I though you might have used marble insted of aluminume I think I saw someone do that using thick marble I have no idea what type is that marble but it was thick one anyway keep the good work you did realy great job, I just love it and your site is full of matirials I would come back and sure got it in my feeder.
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